Hi ManicMiner.
Further to my last post yesterday, I decided to have a "tinker" this morning whilst I wait for the new parts to arrive tomorrow. I removed the assy to check if the two solenoids are the same. As you will see in my photos, they ARE indeed the same solenoids, so I had no problem about swapping them over. They are held in place on the mounting plate by a nut on the underside of the plate. Just a quick undo of the nut, swap them on the plate and re-tighten the nut. Sorted. Slightly fiddly getting the assy out of the car with 4 x T25 Torx screws due to cables being in the way, but nothing a competent DIY'er can't handle in about 20-30 minutes if you have the toolshandy.
After I had swapped the solenoids on the mounting plate, I refitted the solenoid assyto the car and re-connected the electrical connections and vacuum pipes. Started the engine and instantly noticed that the Swirl Flap actuator moved whilst the engine is on tick over, as it should do under 3000rpm. I then got my wife to gently (GENTLY!! I SAID!!!!! Grrrr...)rev the engine to just over 3000rpm and sure enough, the Swirl Flap actuator moved into the "open" position".
Then. as soon as the revs dropped back down below 3000rpm, the Swirl flap actuator moved the Swirl flapsto the "closed" position, as shown in my original photos. RESULT! This has confirmed my diagnosis that the solenoid I had just swapped to the other position is unserviceable.
I took the car for a test drive and sure enough, itfeels smoother and more responsive at low revs. This makes sense as the swirl flaps are now closed making the fuel/air mixture more easy to burn. Withthe originalsolenoid NOTworking, the swirl flaps defaulted to the "OPEN" position making the fuel air mixture not so good for low revs (under 3000rpm) and slow running. This might helpexplain some of your problem too ManicMiner?
IMPORTANT! note thenext lot of info about keeping the revs UNDER 4300rpm due to the faulty solenoid now in the other position
So, "what is the effect of now having a knackered solenoid in the other position" you may ask?Well, thesolenoid in that position (one the one nearest the front of the car) only comes into play at approx 4300rpm and above. It is used to activate the " Intake manifold switchover flaps" to give more power when you really put your foot down. I am notsure if there is a feedback system to let the ECM know if the Intake manifold switchover flapsare activated.So, my "GUESS"is that as long as you don't thrash your engine over about 4300rpm with a faulty solenoid, your ECM may never know there's a fault with the solenoid you have swapped over. However, even if you do take your revs over 4300rpm,you may only notice a lack of power as the Intake is now not able to switchthe Intaketo "high power".
DISCLAIMER: However, I am not sure of what damage of taking your revs over 4300rpm with a faulty Intake manifold switchover flapsolenoidmay cause (if any), so personally I would keep the revs below 4300rpmuntil you have replaced the faulty solenoid.
As an interesting side note to this and a bit of a bonus, the EML has gone OFF all on it's own since swapping the solenoids! Please note that it did not go off immediately, but after 2 or 3 runs in the car.I did NOT have to reset it. I am guessing the ECM has seen the swirl flaps are now working as normal and resetthe light itself. I have nodoubt the code is still in the memory though. Unfortunately I didn't know it would do this andI have already ordered an OBD2 code reader (£10) off of E-bay to reset the light. However, Iwill clear the code anyway, then put the reader back on E-bay! It will have some use after all.
Just for info, I did contact my local Ford garage when the light came on and they quoted me £49.99 to have the codes read and the fault diagnosed. Since then I have found that they charge £88 for the solenoid assy. No doubt they would also charge at least 1hr labour to replace it at who knows how manypounds per hour. Lets guess at £80?? Anyway, I reckon the total bill to fix this fault at Ford would be approx to £250 including VAT. As you may have guessed, I did NOT take my car to Ford to diagnose this fault as the excellent Internet has done the work for me!
So far it has cost me £29.99 and £10 for a code reader, which I will re-sell on E-bay. Lets say a total of £35-£40 ish? That's a saving of over £200 on Ford garage prices.BARGAIN!!!
By the way, the Ford part number details for the "Engine Air Shut Off Control Valve" (Solenoid Assy)is 1357313/5243591
As another thought, I might sell the oneGOOD remaining solenoid on e-bay.It might save someone else a few quid too?
I will update more again, as and whenthe spare parts arrive and are fitted. Hopefully tomorrow, Tuesday 10 May 2016.
